St. Lucia has some of the prettiest landscape in the Caribbean. A spate of resort developments on St Lucia has made this high green island one of the Caribbean's trendy package-tour destinations, but it's still a long way from being sanitized and overdeveloped. Much of it is markedly rural in nature: a mix of small fishing villages, secluded coves, sprawling banana plantations and mountainous jungle.

The most dramatic scenery is in the south, where the twin volcanic peaks of the Pitons rise sharply from the shoreline to form distinctive landmarks. If you're worried about visiting a potential second Montserrat, relax - there hasn't been a volcanic eruption since 1766.

Castries, the island's commercial center and capital, is a busy port city set on a large natural harbor. The liveliest part of the city is just southeast of the port, at Jeremie and Peynier Sts, where the Castries Market houses scores of produce and handicraft stalls. Founded by the French in the 18th century, the city was ravaged by fire three times between 1785 and 1812, and again in 1948. Consequently most of the city's historic buildings have been lost.

One area that survived the last fire was Derek Walcott Square, a quiet central square surrounded by a handful of 19th-century wooden buildings with gingerbread-trim balconies, an attractive Victorian-style library and the imposing Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception. Opposite the cathedral, on the eastern side of the square, is a lofty saman tree that's estimated to be 400 years old.

Rodney Bay is a large protected bay that encompasses the resort area of Reduit Beach and the small fishing village of Gros Islet. An artificial channel cuts between the two areas, opening to a large lagoon that's the site of Rodney Bay Marina, the island's largest yachting port. The marina is a good place to make contact with sailors if you're looking to hitch a ride or find a crew job.

Gros Islet consists of simple wooden houses with rusting tin roofs, lots of rum shops and a shore full of painted wooden boats. If you hear a conch shell being blown, it's the signal that fishing boats have arrived with catch to sell.

Though the town doesn't have many sights per se, St Joseph's Church is a formidable structure at the northern edge of town, and there's a small market near the shore where you can often find fishers mending nets. Gros Islet is also famous for its spirited Friday night 'jump-up.

Day or night, the fun and sun do not stop on this beautiful island they call St. Lucia.